The City Magazine Since 1975

Where to cure your big bad hangover

Where to cure your big bad hangover
November 2019

Plus Latin-inspired seafood in a stunning Charleston single

Big Bad Breakfast

After several false starts, James Beard Award-winning chef John Currence’s Lowcountry outpost is finally slinging all things brekkie seven days a week on Meeting Street. Start with the BLT omelet, stuffed with BBB bacon, spinach, and mayo and topped with zesty tomato gravy. The hash cakes and anything Cajun-ish—such as the boldly spiced and snappy-skinned andouille or the fried oyster and shrimp po’ boy—are standouts, sure to cure even the biggest and baddest hangovers. There are kinks to work out (alas, the grits); but mod diner decor (think cush banquettes and robin’s egg blue walls), family-friendly vibes, plus a portrait of Elvis presiding over the service counter may inspire you to add this Eastside arrival to your weekend brunch grind.

Delaney Oyster House

A historical single on Calhoun Street now houses a chic, seafood-centric restaurant boasting dishes with as much character as their setting. Latin-inspired notes executed with a deft touch appear from start to finish: oysters perked up with smoked dulce chimichurri, succulent octopus escabeche served atop squid ink chicharrón wisps, and delicate red snapper ceviche speckled with corn nuts in a pond of leche de tigre (a Peruvian lime juice marinade). Blue crab rice deepened with crab roe bottarga, sorrel, and sofrito is punchy but balanced, best enjoyed on one of the two luminous piazzas overlooking Marion Square. A charming parlor room bar, attentive waitstaff, and a delightful weekday happy hour (half-priced oysters and $8 martinis anyone?) showcase a snapshot of Charleston in a winsome setting.