The City Magazine Since 1975

Gimme S'More

Gimme S'More
March 2012
Emily Cookson uses hickory-smoked almond ice cream, chocolate ganache, and homemade graham crackers to make chic s’mores.

Sweet treat trends are ever evolving. In the past year, we saw a shift from cupcakes to doughnuts, pies to tarts, and everyone was gaga for French macaroons. So what’s to come? According to Charleston Grill pastry chef Emily Cookson, confection fads are a fickle thing, but she believes this year’s sugar sensation will be desserts that remind us of childhood.

“People want sweets they loved as kids. Even when I put new items on the menu, patrons keep coming back to the classics,” says the Johnson & Wales alum. Why? “They want to end on the right note.” Her perfect combination of tried-and-true classic with haute cuisine? S’mores.

“The almond ice cream gives the necessary smoky flavor,” says Cookson. While this dish is a bit labor intensive (you need to chill your graham cracker dough overnight), the result is pure campfire goodness. “If you don’t have an ice-cream maker, you can blend the almonds with store-bought ice cream,” the chef adds. Ganache serves as a substitute chocolate bar, and there’s no fire needed for this kid-tested, adult-approved confection.