Our taste-and-tell guide to some of the latest and most noteworthy food-and-beverage offerings
The urbane countryside vibe of the bar and dining space of La Cave.
One step into La Cave and you may feel as if you’ve been transported to a chic club in the South of France, or at least the Emily in Paris version of one. True to its name, which translates to “the cellar,” the walls are made to look like stone and hung with framed portraits of what appear to be French nobles from an 18th-century novel. Along with arched doorways, tufted banquettes and sofas, crystal chandeliers, and potted olive trees, the space conjures a playful aristocrats-on-holiday vibe.
When the Upper King Street boîte opened late last year, owners Félix Landrum and his wife, Leslie—the designer who conceived its urbane countryside interior—envisioned it as a spot for diners to wait for tables at sister restaurant, Félix Cocktails et Cuisine, next door. But La Cave seems to have taken on a life of its own, with a convivial scene emanating from the wood and marble bar and the engaging servers behind it.
The drinks are pretty enough for props in an Emily episode, too, with dainty numbers like the violet-colored, gin-based Belle Fleur and Cezanne’s Provence—a pink, citrus and lavender elixir spiked with Calvados—both served neat in etched coupes and garnished with floral flourishes. Other cocktails are clever spins on classics, like the martini made with fromage-washed vodka, and Le Mistral, La Cave’s take on a margarita with piment d’espelette. The all-French wine list has something for everyone as well, from a delightful Colin Perle Grise pét-nat by the glass to a bottle of Château Pavie Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé, if you’re splurging.
(Left to right) Boeuf en croûte is but one of the alluring, not-so-petite small plates served at King Street boîte, La Cave; The pretty Belle Fleur cocktail; Oysters on the half shell with elderberry mignonette.
Jaded types might conclude that such stagecraft adds up to more style than substance in the food department, but they’d be wrong. The menu is made up of small plates, which can easily add up to a fine dinner. Start with the oysters, served with a divine elderberry mignonette that perfectly complements the brininess of the bivalves. Then, order a plate of the Camembert gougères and the rich duck confit gnocchi for the table. But keep the spot-on petite bouillabaisse for yourself, as well as the raclette burger, the mini version of Félix’s classic, because you won’t want to share.
550 King St.
Tuesday-Saturday, 5 p.m.-midnight
lacavechs.com
