From novel noodle dishes to tender dry beef curry, the menu offers a multicultural culinary experience
Char kway teow, or Penang street noodles, anchor a spread of spiced peanuts, a Malaysian gimlet, pickled pineapple, and mezcal cocktail Thai Bird Spice & Everything Nice. Skewers of paneer in Makan’s version of satay with peanut sauce.
Makan
Much to the delight of adventurous local diners, the options for global fare have continued to expand with the debut of Filipino, Pakistani, and West African restaurants downtown amid the special-occasion stalwarts and chef-owned charmers. In June, chef James Wozniuk introduced yet another winner to the mix, bringing Malaysia’s rich melting pot of culinary traditions to the peninsula. Makan, at the corner of Rutledge and Cannon, is an outpost of the Greenville native’s popular DC spot, which the Michelin Guide has awarded its “Bib Gourmand” designation since 2021, and perhaps more telling, has reportedly become a favorite of staffers at the Malaysia Embassy.
After an evening at Makan Charleston, it’s clear the papaya didn’t fall far from the tree. The restaurant’s strength lies in the layered flavors and textures that Wozniuk has refined ever since a 15-hour layover in Kuala Lumpur sparked a deep dive into the country’s cuisine. To wit: a simple snack of peanuts laced with chile, lime leaf, and anchovies is spicy and a little sour, with a rich umami backbone. They’re a habit-forming sidekick to the Halia & Serai, a lemongrass-infused gimlet, or a bottle of the Ameztoi Txakolina. A more nuanced but just as enticing starter, the sate keju, pairs paneer—the fresh cheese typical of India—with peanut sauce in a dish that originated in Indonesia.
A vibrant mural by Maria DeFelice is the focal point of the dining room.
The chef deftly taps these multicultural influences for a well-balanced menu that ranges from novel-to-Charleston noodle dishes, like the char kway teow—a spicy and sweet tangle of broad rice noodles, Chinese sausage, and shrimp—to a fork-tender dry beef curry that wows with a side of pickled pineapple.
To be sure, the food here is the star. The ambience, not so much—with the exception of an eye-catching mural celebrating Malaysian culture by Columbia-based artist Maria DeFelice—and its myriad hard surfaces do little to absorb sound. Still, it’s worth a little noise to take a tour of Southeast Asia with Wozniuk at the helm.
210 Rutledge Ave.
Tuesday-Saturday, 5-10 p.m.
makanchs.com
