The nighborhood gem features fine-dining fare and weekly brunch specials
For years, the best tables in town sat on the far side of the river, and West Ashley made the drive. The Lick, a small, handsome room that slipped into the old YoBo Cantina space in the South Windermere Center this winter, was created to end the commute. As an inviting neighborhood spot, it largely earns its keep. It’s less destination dining than local gem—a romantic little haunt long missing from this part of town.
Owner Christopher Betros built the room to reward lingering: low leather seating, mirrored walls, and a bar that draws focus the moment you step in. His chef, Chris Johnston, arrives by way of kitchens in Chicago, Baltimore, and points between, and the menu reaches high. A long roster of dry-aged and Wagyu cuts aims squarely at the fine-dining tier, yet some of the menu’s most satisfying dishes are lower on the page.
Start with the deviled eggs, rich with jalapeño and a swipe of bacon jam. They pair perfectly with the burger, a juicy house blend topped with American cheese and a tangy sauce; the accompanying tumble of beef tallow fries nearly upstages it. But the kitchen’s quiet triumph is the risotto: spring peas and wild mushrooms folded into a creamy base, lifted by tomato confit and a bright spring onion vinaigrette.
The small bar slings a bevy of accomplished cocktails. The Negroni lands with textbook bittersweet balance. An afternoon perch at the rail with a drink and a few friends is the place at its best.
Word has gotten out: reservations disappear quickly, and Sunday brunch and weekly specials have joined the mix. The Lick won’t dethrone the peninsula’s best, but it doesn’t need to. Old Windermere finally has a place worth staying home for.
10 Windermere Blvd.
(843) 974-3462
www.thelickchs.com
Dinner nightly; lunch on Friday & Saturday; brunch on Sunday
