(Left) Malika Canteen; (Right) Zeera rice, butter chicken, naan, bihari (beef) kabab with biryani rice, raita, and charsi karahi, a rich stew of goat, tomatoes, and ginger.
Ma’am Saab
Time was, curious diners had to head to the outskirts of town to satisfy cravings for global flavors, and even then the pickings were slim. Now, in perhaps the most promising sign that the city’s food scene is diversifying, Pakistani restaurant Ma’am Saab opened last year smack in the middle of the historic district, in the former Jestine’s Kitchen—a paean to all things Southern-fried—no less.
Old-timers would hardly recognize the place, with its exposed brick wall, black lace curtains, and fuchsia track lighting. But they might as well have a seat, order up a Lahore Princess—a lemon juice, cane sugar, and vodka refresher—and a plate of lamb samosas, because they won’t be disappointed. Other winners on the menu: aubergine pakora chaat (eggplant fritters) with pomegranate seeds and mint chutney; succulent butter chicken; and the charsi karahi, a lush goat stew with tomatoes and ginger.
That a one-time Montessori school teacher spun her love of entertaining into this glam brick and mortar is a testament to the strong will of Maryam Ghaznavi and her husband and co-owner, Raheel Gauba, to bring a taste of their Pakistani homeland to Charleston. After moving here in 2006, Ghaznavi cooked her family’s Punjabi specialties to stay close to her culture. Throwing dinner parties for 20 to 30 people wasn’t unusual. Among her frequent guests were Melanie and Michael Shemtov, owners of The Daily, who invited Ghaznavi and Gauba to do a series of pop-ups in the café, which eventually led to opening their Pakistani street food spot, Malika Canteen, in Mount Pleasant Towne Centre.
With two restaurants under their belt, the couple of late have been focusing on expanding their offerings at Ma’am Saab, including opening for lunch, starting a supper club, and adding a tasting menu. Jestine’s may be gone, but its Southern hospitality lives on.
251 Meeting St. maamsaabchs.com
More Worldly Bites
Coterie
A modern Indian restaurant with Caribbean vibes; try the okroni, a gin martini spiked with okra amaro, and the soulful country captain curry.
17 Warren St. coteriechs.com
Malika Canteen
The owners of Ma’am Saab first opened this fun take on Pakistani street food, including lamb burgers, naan pizzas, and masala poutine.
1333 Theater Dr., Mount Pleasant malikacanteen.com
Spice Palette
This spot may be in a strip mall, but the interior is an inviting homage to Bollywood, with an epic menu that spans the Indian restaurant classics.
1220 Ben Sawyer Blvd., Mount Pleasant spicepaletteindiancuisine.com
Images by (Pidan sacred banner from Cambodia, Khmer, 1880-1910, Silk With Weft Ikat), Honolulu Academy of Arts & (ginger illustration) Anastasia Nio & courtesy of (chicken tikka) Malika Canteen
