Slow-cooked until tender, then kissed by flame, these richly spiced ribs from Chubby Fish chef-owner James London are finished on the grill for a smoky char and accompanied by a nutty romesco
(Serves 3)
For the spice rub:
For the lamb:
Spread the seeds and peppercorns in a large sauté pan and toast over medium heat until fragrant, one to two minutes. Let cool, then grind with a mortar and pestle, spice grinder, or blender to a coarse texture. Combine with the smoked paprika and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 275°F.
Pat the ribs dry. Season generously with kosher salt. Apply two tablespoons of rub per rack, pressing to adhere.
Lay each rack on a piece of foil large enough to wrap it up in. Drizzle each with two tablespoons of olive oil. Add three smashed garlic cloves, one sliced shallot, and three thyme sprigs to each. Wrap tightly into sealed packets. Place them in a casserole dish or on a foil-lined sheet pan to catch any fat.
Cook the packets in the oven for two hours and 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and let the lamb cool to room temperature in the foil packets. These can be held in the refrigerator for up to two days before grilling.
Heat the grill to medium-high, with the charcoal on one side only for a two-zone setting. Remove the ribs from the foil and grill them straight from the refrigerator, turning them frequently to develop an even char, for three to five minutes.
Slice the racks between the bones. Finish with a heavy drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of flaky sea salt. Garnish with thyme and serve with romesco.
For the romesco sauce:
(Makes 1½ quarts)
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Coat the onion and bell peppers lightly with olive oil and place them on a foil-lined sheet pan. Roast for 15 minutes. Coat the tomatoes lightly with olive oil and add to the pan.
Place the diced bread and toasted almonds on a separate sheet pan. Roast both pans for another 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool to room temperature.
Place the chiles in a bowl and cover with boiling water. Let steep for 10 to 15 minutes, until softened. Working in batches if needed, transfer the chiles to a blender with about 3/4 cup of the soaking liquid and blend until smooth. This will yield more than needed, but it’s great to save for future sauces or marinades.
Peel and chop the onion. Peel, seed, and chop the roasted peppers and tomatoes. Working in batches, combine the onion, peppers, and tomatoes with the garlic, olive oil, sherry vinegar, salt, smoked paprika, and four tablespoons of the guajillo puree in a food processor and process for one to two minutes, or until combined. Add the toasted bread and almonds. Continue processing for another one to two minutes, until incorporated but still slightly textured. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt or sherry vinegar as desired. Covered and refrigerated, the romesco will keep for up to two weeks, but it should be served at room temperature.
Chef’s Notes: “Watch the grill closely as the lamb fat will flare. Move the racks to the cooler side as needed to control flames. The ribs will be done in three to five minutes, as they have already been cooked in the oven. The grilling is to just char them and render the fat.”
