Discover tavern staples and elevated dishes alike in the historic Lequeux-Williams home on George Street
CM: What’s the history of your new digs in the Lequeux-Williams home at 36 George St?
JS: Renovating and restoring a building from the 1830s while making sure it’s structurally sound and safe for a restaurant has been a labor of love to say the least! The Method Studios team had great partners in Renew Urban Charleston, who helped preserve the incredible original details like plaster moldings, wood-burning fireplaces, and wide-plank pine floors.
CM: What can you tell us about the concept there: Lowland?
JS: The tavern idea was already in place by the time I joined the project, but finessing the concept was a group effort. We started by laying out the logistical challenges—a small kitchen, a historic building, lack of storage space—and how those factors impacted what was feasible on the culinary front. From there, we took inspiration from our favorite taverns, pubs, and izakayas. I had to completely change my menu-writing style from what I had done over the past 15 years and figure out what my voice and style should be for this new space. We figured out pretty quickly that we needed to run one menu downstairs and then add some elevated brushstrokes upstairs. This allows us to offer simpler things like pickled vegetables and a tavern burger and fries, but also some elegant and elevated dishes to round out the dining experience.
CM: You have an amazing list of local suppliers. Tell us about some of them.
JS: We have pork from Marvin Ross at Peculiar Pig, vegetables from Nat Bradford, grains from Marsh Hen Mill, and shrimp from Cindy and Taylor at Tarvin Seafood. David Richardson at Marvin’s Seafood helps us with stone crabs and other seafood. It’s an embarrassment of riches, really.
CM: What’s happening upstairs with the dining room?
JS: We have a lot of requests for private dining, so we’ve been working on those as we staff up. It’s a beautiful room, with a floor-to-ceiling, hand-painted mural on the wall and a private little bar that looks like it’s made to have a classic martini service. We have amazing music and some incredible bottles of wine up there. The vibe will be elevated, but not stuffy—like the best dinner party in town.
CM: What are some standout Lowland menu items?
JS: Anytime I look for inspiration, I look to my circle of chef friends. When I started writing the menu, there were a few things I really wanted but couldn’t achieve, like bread service. So I thought, who makes the best biscuit? I asked [cookbook author and pastry chef] Cheryl Day if she’d share her biscuit recipe, and she sent me a document with ingredients plus three pages describing her technique. I was honored she went to that much effort, and it was only fitting to put her name on our biscuit. I also love the hand pie because it’s meant to be eaten with your hands and is such a special way to end a meal. Our hand pie is inspired by the undisputed queen, [essayist and pastry chef] Lisa Marie Donovan. She cooks with so much soul.
CM: You received a James Beard award shortly after becoming the executive chef of FIG in 2014—big achievements for a young man.
JS: That was super unexpected! The whole experience was just wild. I flew back from Chicago wondering what the award would change. I came back to the restaurant the next night and the team was so happy – but then we had a water heater issue, and a sink was clogged. So I went from holding a coveted medal to having my arm in a clogged sink – and I thought, this about sums it up! It was a wake-up call that we still have work to do. Winning definitely motivated me to prove to myself that I deserved it. I dug in and worked twice as hard.
CM: How have you changed things at The Quinte, which is just steps across the cobblestones Ellis Alley, named for Bob Ellis Shoes, which occupied the nearby King Street corner for decades.
JS: When I walked into The Quinte for the first time, I thought it was really beautiful. But when I envisioned myself in the space, I knew I wanted it to be a more approachable concept. The previous design and menu felt very precious, but luckily my partners do amazing design work. The design team came in with the goal of making the space less precious and changed up the lighting, painted the back bar red for a Jacques Cousteau vibe, and found fun nautical touches at local antique stores. The result is a space that’s more fun and approachable with a menu to match.
CM: You’ve had a hand in the wine selections for all three concepts. How did a chef get so involved with wine?
JS: The beverage world is interesting, because oftentimes it comes down to sourcing, stories, and supporting the right people. In some ways I’ve always had a love for wine and have always felt there is an important connection between wine and food. At F.I.G. I was very lucky to work with incredible wine professionals who wrote wine lists to complement the cuisines we created. Over the past few years, I did a deep dive into Champagne and how there are Champagnes for every part of the meal. I’m fascinated by the craftsmanship of wine and learning about the effort the new generation of winemakers is putting into the Champagnes of today.
