(Left to right) Fried escabeche with a house margarita; Carnitas as interpreted by Colectivo: ribs marinated in buttermilk and fried, served with fresh vegetables, smoky salsa, onions, and cilantro.
Colectivo
While Charleston is no stranger to Mexican food, the newly opened Colectivo on John’s Island, takes the standard chips, guac, and taco formula and turns the dial up to 11. Tamales stuffed with collards and maitake? Fingerlings con queso? Carnitas ribs marinated in buttermilk and then fried? Yes, yes, and yes, please. Helmed by Alex Yellan, whose resume includes stints as Minero’s executive chef and chef de cuisine at the erstwhile Tu, as well as farther afield on the opening teams at Pok Pok and Empellón Taqueria in New York City, the restaurant joins a number of spots en route to Kiawah and Seabrook islands that have opened in recent years. The corrugated-steel, barn-like building is set back from the road and easy to miss, save for its neon sign. The interior is just as rustic, but the welcoming service staff make up for any lack of warmth in the decor (though fun elements like hanging string-light fixtures and bright pops of color via stools, tiles, and paint add some flair).
In one of many departures from other Mexican mainstays, Colectivo doesn’t treat wine as an afterthought. The list is short, yes, but features a few outliers from the typical house white and red offerings, including a rosé from central Mexico. That said, the house margarita on the rocks with salt, served in a lowball glass, is solid as can be, and is the ideal accompaniment to a plate of fried escabeche. The starter, which is basically pickles tempura, originated as a snack the kitchen crew made for themselves but was too good to keep from diners. That traditional-but-better spirit permeates much of the menu, from the crispy open-faced quesadilla to the dessert bunuelo con nieve, a bowl of pecan ice cream topped with pineapple jam and a crunchy cinnamon fritter that beats fried ice cream any day.
2901 Maybank Hwy., John’s Island colectivocharleston.com
More Worldly Bites
Cafecito
Missing a proper cafecito (Cuban espresso) and Cubano sandwich, a couple of Miami transplants opened this spot featuring all manner of coffee drinks, pastries, and sandwiches. 471 King St. cafecitoking.com
Delicias de Minas
From cheesebread to churrasco (barbecue), this bakery/buffet offers an array of Brazilian specialities. 220 Red Bank Rd., Goose Creek facebook.com/deliciasdeminas.goosecreek
Maya Del Sol Kitchen
An R Kitchen alum opened this tacqueria by day, multi-course dining experience by night. 1813-B, Reynolds Ave., North Charleston raulsmayadelsol.com
Images by (patterN) Mykola Mazuryk & (pepper illustration) Vikeriya & courtesy of (Pastries) cafecito & (pork loin) Maya Del Sol
