The Pioneers: In 2013, chef Sean Park took over Kanpai in a strip mall, turning it into a destination for masterful sushi and Korean dishes. Longtime faves, Jack’s Cosmic Dogs and Melvin’s BBQ; (Pictured above clockwise from top left) Jack's Cosmic Dogs, Kanpai, Melvin’s BBQ, & Malika.
The six-lane stretch east of the Cooper has seldom been called a culinary corridor. A couple worthy local treats—throwback chili dogs at Jack’s Cosmic Dogs, mustard-sauced pork at Melvin’s BBQ—could be found along the route, and a few upscale gems were hidden away in strip malls, like Langdon’s from Patrick Owens and Sean Park’s exquisite sushi at Kanpai. Mostly, though, Highway 17 has been the domain of cookie-cutter franchises and national chains.
In recent years, as Mount Pleasant has grown from a bedroom community into South Carolina’s fourth-largest city, a new diversity has begun to sprout along this once-staid suburban strip. Locals and out-of-towners alike may find it worth their while to make the short drive over the Ravenel Bridge for an unexpectedly flavorful meal.
Savi Cucina + Wine Bar
Directly across the traffic circle from the Palmetto Grande cinema, Savi brings an impressive slate of big Italian wines and an array of upscale plates to match. Coastal Italian is the theme, so there’s linguine with local clams, grilled octopus atop chunks of crisp-fried potatoes, and shrimp and blue crab tucked inside ravioli. The seafood plates are balanced by hefty steaks and Italian American classics like eggplant Parmesan and a splendid pappardelle tossed with slow-braised lamb accented by lemon-tinged ricotta. With tender, fresh-made pastas, house-made burrata and mozzarella, and plenty of good Italian wine, Savi gives diners much to savor in the heart of Mount Pleasant Towne Centre. 1324 Theater Dr., savicucina.com
Malika Canteen
Towne Centre is also home to the Lowcountry’s only Pakistani restaurant. Amid vibrantly colored walls, chef-owner Maryam Ghaznavi offers a blend of Pakistani and northern Indian street food alongside more formal large plates. A selection of “street-side” chaat layer golden brown samosas over savory curried chickpeas and fill crisp dahi puri shells with cool, fragrant yogurt. Traditional curries and kebabs, redolent with herbs and spices, are served side by side with East/West fusions like beef or lamb in paratha wraps and masala poutine—seasoned fries smothered in gooey cheese curds and savory tomato cream sauce. 1333 Theater Dr., malikacanteen.com
(Clockwise from top left) SAvi Cucina & Wine Bar, Nick’s German Kitchen, Malika Canteen, & Ville Sainte Bistro.
Ville Sainte Bistro
Two years ago, Carole Robert and Mark Manly, owners of the former Annie’s Bistro in Towne Centre, moved a few miles down the road and opened a larger version called Ville Sainte. Robert, a native of Paris, creates classic French dishes with a dogmatic focus on ingredients. That means visiting local purveyors herself to hand-select each day’s meats, seafood, and produce, then combining them with imported specialties, like the garlic paste that flavors the splendid escargot or rare seasonal cheese to transform into fondue. 1035 Johnnie Dodds Blvd., villesaintebistro.com
Nick’s German Kitchen
For years, the Lowcountry was inexplicably devoid of German restaurants. That changed in December 2019 when Nick and Kelly Ruhotina, who had previously operated a small restaurant in Darmstadt, Germany, opened an American version, first named Mezzo, in a shopping center just off the Isle of Palms Connector. The menu is anchored by a half-dozen variations of pan-fried schnitzel, ranging from a simple veal cutlet served over a mound of bacon-fried potatoes to a hearty lumberjack version loaded with creamy sauerkraut, bacon, and a fried egg. There are no lederhosen or groaning steins of beer in sight, just handmade spaetzle and an array of tempting German specials served in a petite storefront with a contemporary European flair. 1150 Hungryneck Blvd., nicksgerman.com
Photographs by (Malika food) Shell ROyster, (sushi) Christopher Shane, & (Melvin’s) Jonathan boncek & Courtesy of (1) Jack’s Cosmic dogs, Savi Cucina) Justin Morris & (Nick’s German Kitchen-2 & Ville sainte Bistro) Shell Royster & courtesy of (1) Malika Canteen
