(Left to right) Chef Nikko Cagalanan incorporates seasonal ingredients, such as lettuces, into his pancit (center), a Filipino stir-fry noodle dish; Pickled shiitake toast at Kultura.
Kultura
Filipino food is new to most Charlestonians and fortunately, we have Kultura’s Nikko Cagalanan to show us how it’s done. From the pancit with citrus-soy house noodles and lump crab to pork loin menudo in a tomato-caramel sauce, the self-taught chef makes his home cuisine sing with a knack for innovation that crowned him champion of the Food Network’s Chopped in 2022.
After growing up in the Philippines, Cagalanan moved to the US in 2011 to work as a nurse, but his love of food won out and he started cooking professionally in 2014. When he landed in Charleston four years later, he honed his chops at Zero George and later at his own pop-up Mansueta’s. Fast-forward to last summer when the latest iteration of his pop-up evolved into a brick and mortar as he took over Baguette Magic’s Spring Street lease. Cagalanan and his business partner (and Baguette Magic co-owner) Paula Kramer have since transformed the bakery into one of the hottest spots in town—and, according to Eater, one of the top 12 new restaurants in the country last year.
Part of the magic is that the chef, while wildly talented, doesn’t seem to take himself too seriously. To wit: the restaurant’s weekend karaoke brunch, where one can enjoy a guava pop tart and an ube latte topped with Fruity Pebbles before belting out “My Way,” Frank Sinatra-style. (Cocktails are just as colorful, like the tropical Halo Halo with sake, ube, pineapple, and coconut milk.)
That sense of communal warmth extends to dinner service in the tiny plant-filled dining room, bar, and cozy patio where patrons bond over fork-tender, twice-cooked pork ribs showered with furikake and Rice Krispies; rice porridge topped with smoked trout roe, XO sauce, and chile flake; and other bold takes on a cuisine that we now can’t seem to get enough of.
73 Spring St. kulturacharleston.com
More Worldly Bites
Beautiful South
From the couple behind Sichuan spot Kwei Fei, this sleek space focuses on the cuisine of Hong Kong and southern China. Think roasted pork belly, scallion oil noodles, and inventive cocktails.
128 Columbus St. beautifulsouthchs.com
Gingerbug
Thai curries and charcoal-grilled snacks like Chiang Mai sausage and papapya salad are on the menu at this pop-up every Monday night at Colectivo.
2901 Maybank Hwy., John’s Island @gingerbugchs
King BBQ
A sibling to the beloved Jackrabbit Filly, this Chinatown barbecue concept is a new go-to for smoked meats and “trashy-fancy” cocktails at its ornate bar, right off Rivers Avenue.
2029 Carver Ave., North Charleston eatkingbbq.com
Pink Bellies
OG garlic noodles, spicy lamb dumplings, and the animal-style burger are just a few of the standout dishes at this noodle shop inspired by Cali-style Vietnamese favorites.
595 King St. eatpinkbellies.com
Images by (Pattern) Mr.Theerachai, (herb illustration) Valumyan, & (chopstick illustration) Eisfrei & courtesy of (duck) Beautiful South & (garlic noodles) Pink Bellies
