Pastry chef Sean Ehland (at right) picks berries with farmer Fritz Aichele at Maple Ridge Farms in Canadys. He uses them in dishes such as crème fraiche mousse with blackberry sorbet. Photographs by (left to right) Christopher Shane & Ruta Elvikyte
July 23, 2014
Tastes Like Summer
Pastry chef Sean Ehland shares a sweet use for blackberries
written BY Marion Sullivan
Pastry chef Sean Ehland—who soon departs McCrady’s for a still-unnamed Daniel Patterson Group project in San Francsico—confesses to a soft spot for blackberries. “My grandmother had them growing in her backyard,” he explains. “My brother and I would devour them. She would send us home with a bag full when we left her house—they rarely made the trip.” Bringing more tang than blueberries, which are also in season during the months of June and July, Lowcountry blackberries are ideal for desserts. Ehland puts them to work while they’re at their best, whipping up a crème fraiche mousse to pair with his blackberry sorbet, which he serves atop a bed of fresh berries. Ehland sources his fruit from local producers, such as Maple Ridge Farms in Canadys, and also purchases at the farmers markets. The downtown market offers plenty of opportunity to stock up this month, as several of its vendors sell blackberries from their stalls. “That fruit is as close to the soil as you can get aside from picking it yourself,” he says.