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Berry Good!

Wednesday, May 28, 2014

Emily Cookson (left) picks strawberries at Boone Hall Plantation, then blends the fruit into ice cream (right). Photos by Ruta Elvikyte

May 28, 2014

Berry Good!
Pastry chef Emily Cookson shares her recipe for roasted strawberry ice cream

WRITTEN BY Marion Sullivan

It’s prime time for strawberries (this year’s season is projected to run through June) and, like many Lowcountry residents, Emily Cookson of Butcher & Bee gets her fragrant heart-shaped fruit at Boone Hall Plantation and Ambrose Family Farm, two of the area’s largest producers and biggest pick-your-own establishments. “I like smaller strawberries, and theirs usually are,” explains Cookson. One of her favorite ways to use them? In roasted strawberry ice cream. Try her recipe below, roasting the berries with vanilla, salt, and brown sugar to achieve what she calls an “almost cooked fruit ‘cobbleriness’” before blending them into ice cream.

Roasted Strawberry Ice Cream
(Makes 8 cups)
1 ½ lbs. local strawberries
1/2 cup brown sugar, packed
2 oz. unsalted butter, diced
2 eggs
4 egg yolks
1 1/3 cups granulated sugar, divided
1 qt. whipping cream
2 cups whole milk
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Wash the strawberries and dry on paper towels. Remove the stems. Quarter the strawberries and place in a bowl. Toss with brown sugar. Place the strawberries in a baking dish. Dot the fruit with butter. Roast the strawberries, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes, until the fruit is soft and has broken down slightly. Remove from oven and cool to room temperature. Purée in a food processor. Set aside.

Make an ice bath in a large bowl with equal amounts of ice and water. Set aside.

Put the eggs, yolks, and one-third cup of granulated sugar in a bowl. Whisk egg mixture together.

Combine the cream, milk, one cup of sugar, salt, and vanilla extract in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring the cream mixture to a simmer.

Whisking constantly, drizzle the hot cream mixture into the eggs. Once it is incorporated, pour the mixture back into the saucepan. Over low heat, stir the mixture in a figure eight pattern until it registers 170°F. Strain the mixture into a bowl. Set the bowl in the ice bath. Stir the mixture until it cools. Remove the bowl from the ice bath. Whisk in the strawberry purée.

Churn in an ice-cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions. Tightly covered, the ice cream will keep for one month in the freezer.

Click here for Cookson’s strawberry tart recipe, and here for her take on strawberry shortcake.