The City Magazine Since 1975

Bubbling Up

September 2014
Bubbling Up
Alongside the farm-to-table movement, there’s been a rise in grower Champagnes, made in the eponymous region of France by the same farmer who grew the grapes. To find the real deal, Grassroots Wine Wholesalers’ Harry Root advises looking for the “RM” code (short for Récoltant Manipulant, or “farmer-made”) on the label

Under $25
Jean Francois Mérieau “Bulles,” 2010, Loire Valley, France

“To be clear, this one isn’t Champagne. A Champagne under $25 is either a very small bottle or not very good. However, Mérieau’s ’Bulles,’ grown on the family’s Loire Valley property, is a blend of chenin blanc and chardonnay. It is dry and crisp with apple, pear, and citrus notes.” Try it at Cannon Green or 492 King; buy it at Bottles, $20

Under $50
Aubry et Fils Brut NV

“Aubry is unique in that in addition to the big three grapes of Champagne—chardonnay, pinot noir, and pinot meunier, it also uses the region’s ancient varieties of arbanne, petit meslier, and fromenteau in this wine. Gloriously dry and complex, it displays notes as diverse as white flowers, mint, and wet stone.” Try it at FIG or The Macintosh; buy it at Bottles, $40

Under $75
Pierre Péters ”Cuvée de Réserve” Brut Blanc de Blancs NV

“Ah, blanc de blancs—white grapes grown on white soil in the Côte des Blancs subregion in Champagne. Pierre Péters is among the best of the region’s producers. It has juicy flavors of white peaches, apple, and lime, yet is still dry with an almost crunchy texture.” Try it at Bin 152, Cypress, or High Cotton; buy it at Bottles, $65

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