(left to right) Atlanta designer Sasha Gil’s color play; Emerging Designer Michael Wiernicki, here with Charleston magazine and CFW style director Ayoka Lucas, learns he’s Thursday’s People’s Choice and Fashion Panel ED winner; one of Wiernicki’s Gaga-esque tribal space uniforms. (left to right) Photographs by Ed Kavishe/FashionWirePress.com (far right and left) & Joshua Drake (center) for Charleston Fashion Week
March 25, 2011
Bill Murray, Lady Gaga, and Mad Men?
Thursday night brings odd—but entertaining—couplings to Charleston Fashion Week®
written by Melissa Bigner
Every night of CFW ramps up with a severe case of text-itis as attendees vie to get their sassy and succinct Tweets streamed on the tent’s big screens. Waiting for the shows to start last night, the audience crackled with all the energy of Friday Eve as attendees broke out in squeals when anyone spotted their Tweet. With apologies to Fashion Panel member and swimwear designer Maria Dobrzanska Reeves, who’s been trying to read The Fashion Statement on her phone, there’s too much to say in recapping last night to stick to 140 characters. So here’s to reading fast and furiously!
Bill Murray, Hampden Clothing, & a Full Front Row
When the lights dimmed, Emily Hearn took to the stage with her guitar and drum- and mandolin-toting bandmates in supreme contrast to the electronic beats that shake the tents nightly. As clouds skimmed the runway’s backdrop and Hearn’s own video played super-sized behind her, the singer-songwriter sang along with her big-screen likeness (who cavorted with actor—and Charleston RiverDogs owner—Bill Murray on the streets of our fair city). From that charming kickoff, the retail show portion opened with V2V, whose fem looks ran the gamut from casual to country club to formal fête and brought some serious South Beach style to the Holy City. Next came Palm Avenue, they of the Lilly Pulitzer party. Katy Perry’s “Firework” was the perfect choice to open and close PA’s explosion of candy-colored frocks and cheery looks that the princess herself might favor.
Last up was Hampden Clothing, the oft-lauded Southern darling of the national fashion mag set. The looks owner Stacey Smallwood sent down the catwalk rocked the house upside down and backwards. China-doll models sporting top-of-head knots, apple-red lips, and painted eyebrows à la Kabuki theater donned flouncy-meets-crisp trenches and blazers awash with ruffles and cape-like swaths of fabric, some sleeveless, some with belted arms. Suffice to say it was the first time that evening that Fashion Panel judge Janie Bryant, costume designer for AMC’s Mad Men, pulled out her iPhone to snap shots. Her front-row neighbors—including Army Wives costume buyer Andrea Serrano, swimwear designer Maria Dobrzanska Reeves, SocialPrimer.com’s K. Cooper Ray, and womenswear designer Mychael Knight—seemed similarly riled up by the show.
Pinup Gals, Sexy Street Style, & Lady Gaga, Take Note
Raleigh, North Carolina’s Eleanor Morgan Hoffman opened the Emerging Designer portion of the night with drama with a capital “D.” As breathy, French-accented songs billowed out over the crowd, a mostly black-toned collection—rich in laser-cut petals, laser-cutaways, raven feathers, and hand-painted gold flourishes, wended its way past a rapt audience. In a twist, she concluded with a sleeveless chiffon gown in near-black navy, its collar a ring of iridescent feathers, its waist belted in gold metal, its slit thigh-high, and its underlays a rich forest green. Local designer Julie Wheat gave the tent’s vibe a 180-degree turnabout when her pinup-gal models sashayed past in polka-dotted party dresses and color-blocked swimsuits that were nice—and a wee bit naughty. Think high-waisted bathing suit bottoms cut modestly at the leg, prim at first pass but cheeky as seen from the back. By welding tricky stretch fabrics like a maestro, Wheat’s tailoring and deft touch brought sexy back to one-pieces.
With two ED shows down and the bar set crazy high—it was arguably the toughest night for ED competition so far—Atlanta-resident Sasha Gil’s collection hit the stage and made all us curvy girls cheer for her celebration of womanly shapes (and for her models, some of whom were the most voluptuous seen at CFW so far). The designer favored gray and black played out over a mix of streetwear including a shimmering graphite-shaded suit that fit like a second (shark) skin; riding pants that looked more biker than equestrian; and velvet cowl hoodies draped just so. Judges, the media, and attendees in general were impressed when Gil paired high-waisted, wide-legged trousers in cream with a cropped silk fuschia top bearing sheer three-quarter-length balloon sleeves, an ensemble that would play as well in Charleston as it would in say, Soho. Every last look was boutique-ready, so here’s hoping she gets picked up asap.
And as for Thursday’s People’s Choice and Fashion Panel ED winner, Michael Wiernicki, where to start? I’m betting Wiernicki will be one of Lady Gaga’s next clothiers, because the dude is all about fashion as performance art, though his craftsmanship towers mountains above the entertainer’s meat dress. Working predominantly with traditional, oft-embroidered materials of gold, brown, and black (I spotted tapestry roses amid African-style block prints), he crafted a costume-flavored collection dominated by tribal-meets-space invader uniforms. It was, indeed, as bizarre as it sounds, but the entirety was also equally beautiful to behold. With pieced together patterns and textures in precise geometric collages alongside reinterpreted mock necks, shoulder pads, and puff sleeves, Wiernicki’s handwork was artisan-quality, his ideas provocative, and the sum, gallery-worthy. Looks like Saturday night is shaping up to be quite the colorful competition.
Wrapping It Up
Featured Designer Hunter Dixon’s show closed out the night in a flurry of high-waisted, pleated, and brass button-fronted slacks, skirts, and jackets. Watching models in merciful flats, loafers, and even jazz-style shoes, attendees soaked up the show with its flashback to the tailored side of the late ’70s and ’80s. I for one was ready to slip on the blush pink wide-legged pants ensemble with its gray baseball jersey top that was feminized with flowy, pale buttercream chiffon sleeves peppered with sparkling polka dots. Good stuff and a great cap-off to a wild night of fashion.
Friday & Saturday Night After-Parties
Tonight and tomorrow nights’ shows have sold out; ticket-holders, click here for schedules, entertainment, and details. After-parties are still open to all! Friday night, head to Barsa Bar & Lounge at King and Line streets (58 Line St., 843/577-5393; $10 cover or $5 with CFW ticket; cash bar) or Hall’s Chophouse, where pianist Anthony Owens will play (434 King St., 843/727-0090; no cover; cash bar).
Saturday after the shows, Charleston After Dark & 26 Industries present Luxe, the official Charleston Fashion Week finale party (Millennium Music building, 372 King St.; $65 for CFW Saturday night and CFW Weekly ticket holders, sponsors, participating retail stores, and models [$85 upgrade to VIP] or $95 general admission and $150 VIP.) On tap: cocktails, rogue runway shows, lounge parlor, and dance party amped up by Miami DJs like Deejay D-Nyce, DJ Matt A, and DJ Cato K. Buy tickets here or at the door.
Handful of Bridal Tix Left!
There are only a few tickets left for Saturday’s Spring Bridal Show, where local designers and national names like Carol Hannah, Heidi Elnora, and Callie Tein will debut upscale gowns, local bakers and caterers will share their sweet and savory treats, and giveaways abound. Buy your ticket while they last! This event has the national media—big-name magazine editors and network TV news shows—all abuzz. Not to be missed!
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