Virginia’s on King

If you’re hankering for traditional Southern fare from a kitchen that doesn’t overly worry about “creative spin,” this may be just the ticket. Pop some fried okra with remoulade while waiting for your country fried steak with mashed potatoes and squash casserole. But if you’re there for ­dinner, tread lightly with appetizers, because the dinner entrées—essentially the same as lunch, only more—are big as a cotton house.