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This busy neighborhood restaurant blends the best of local produce, fish, and fowl in signature dishes inspired by French fare yet also featuring Southern cuisine at its finest. Come early for brunch offering luscious pancakes and smooth grits or visit for dinner for plump scallops marinated in pomegranate barbecue sauce and wrapped with bacon. (PA) 3140 Maybank Hwy., 559-9090. $$-$$$; L. D. SBR.