Quick Bite: Vintage Vittles

What with its stableyards, slave cabins, and Versaille-inspired landscape, Middleton Place has long served as a venue for experiencing plantation life. But, did you know that thanks to a green-thumbed chef and his heirloom garden, visitors today can truly taste the past?

“I spent days researching the vegetables that would have grown here when it was a plantation,” says Micah Garrison, chef of Middleton Place Restaurant. Following stints at both 82 Queen and Cypress, Garrison took over the Middleton kitchen as executive chef, and subsequently gardener, in 2009. “We grow okra, cucumbers, beans, 15 different kinds of heirloom tomatoes, and peppers,” he says. It’s a lot of work, he admits, but the pay-off is on the plate. Even if you don’t have a garden full of heirloom veggies, Garrison says making an historically reminiscent meal from your own late summer crops, or farmers market substitutes, is easier than you think.

For a light summer dish, the chef suggests taking traditional sides and adding a modern twist with local wreckfish. The fish can be found in the Eastern Atlantic Ocean; however the species’ only fishery is located at the Charleston Bump. “You can buy it at Crosby’s Seafood,” Garrison says. Seasonal produce such as vine-ripened cherry tomatoes and cowpeas make perfect accompaniments. While the wreckfish is browning in the oven, heat the succotash. Then, while the fish is resting (so that it can absorb its juices), sauté your tomatoes with shallots. “You want to gently move the pan to avoid breaking the tomatoes,” the chef advises, and cook them last before plating.

Wreckfish, Succotash, & Tomato & Herbs

Serves

4

Ingredients 

For the Wreckfish
4 (6-oz.) portions wreckfish
8 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and fresh ground white pepper, to taste
6 cups succotash (recipe follows)
2 cups tomato & herbs (find recipe at charlestonmag.com)

For the succotash:
2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups cooked corn
2 cups blanched lima beans
2 cups cooked local cowpeas
4 Tbs. unsalted European butter
Salt and fresh ground white pepper, to taste

For the Sautéed Tomato & Herbs
(Serves 4)
2 cup grape tomatoes, cut in half lengthwise
4 Tbs. shaved shallot
4 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
4 tsp. fresh minced garden herbs (parsley, basil, thyme)
Salt and fresh ground white pepper, to taste

Directions 

For the Wreckfish
Preheat oven to 350ºF. Heat a nonstick sauté pan over medium-high flame. Once pan is hot, add oil. Season fish on both sides with salt and pepper. Sear fish flesh-side down for one minute. Flip fish and place pan in oven. Cook for eight to 10 minutes, until brown.

For the succotash:
Heat pan over medium-high flame. Once hot, add oil, then remaining ingredients. Gently sauté until warm.

For the Sautéed Tomato & Herbs
Gently warm in small sauce pot over a low heat. Add oil, shallots, and cook until translucent. Add all other ingredients, mix well and warm gently.

Assemble a half cup of succotash on plate. Stack wreckfish on top of succotash. Top with tomato and herbs and serve.