In Good Taste: Talk Soup
Chef Aaron Deal offers savory and sweet bowls to help weather the cold
At 26, Aaron Deal is already the executive chef of four-diamond French Quarter restaurant Tristan. In just over a year, he has quickly established a reputation for serving creative cuisine that includes one of the best she-crab soups in town.
Inspired by his inventiveness, we challenged Deal to create an answer to the
winter doldrums: an all-soup menu. Not a hodgepodge of ho-hum leftovers built on the bones of the holiday bird, but innovative twists on the traditional passel of classic cold-weather soups with enough variety to keep your taste buds content for the entire season. In short, we wanted winter warmers that offered culinary comfort in a cup.
“Growing up in the mountains of North Carolina, the first sign of winter was my mother’s vegetable beef soup,” says Deal. “I loved that it took all day to prepare and brought our family together.” The soups he offers here are his own unique creations, most with instructions for making ahead, and they’re guaranteed to satisfy during cold months. Whether you serve all four or just one, call family and friends to the table. Soup’s on!
Cauliflower Bisque
- 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 cups diced yellow onions
- 1 Tbs. sliced garlic
- 1/4 cup raw basmati rice
- 1 bay leaf
- 2 lbs. cauliflower florets
- 1 qt. whole milk
- 2 tsp. kosher salt
- 1/8 tsp. white pepper
- Curry Vinaigrette, for garnish
- Sprigs of micro cilantro or fresh cilantro leaves, for garnish
- 2 Tbs. Tristan’s Curry Powder (See recipe below)
- 1/4 cup rice wine vinegar
- 1/4 tsp. kosher salt
- 1/2 cup canola oil
- 1 star anise pod
- 1/4 tsp. cardamom seeds
- 2 tsp. coriander seeds
- 3 cloves
- 1/2 tsp. ground cumin
- 1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper
- 1/2 tsp. ground fenugreek
- 1/4 tsp. ground white pepper
- 2 tsp. turmeric
Toasted Curry Vinaigrette
(Enough for 6 servings of Cauliflower Bisque)
For Tristan’s Curry Powder:
Place large, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Add olive oil and onion. Sweat until translucent. Add garlic slices, rice, and bay leaf and cook for one minute. Stir in cauliflower florets and cook for another minute. Slowly add milk. Bring to a simmer, reduce heat to low, and cover. Simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until florets are tender and rice is cooked.
Remove pan from heat. Working in batches, puree hot ingredients in blender until silky smooth. Return soup to pan and add salt and pepper. Divide soup among six warmed bowls. Garnish each with Curry Vinaigrette and sprigs of micro cilantro or cilantro leaves. Serve immediately.
*Chef’s note: Soup can be made up to two days in advance, cooled, covered, and refrigerated. Reheat gently.
Toasted Curry Vinaigrette
Place first three ingredients in mixing bowl and mix well. Pour in oil in a slow, steady stream while whisking constantly. A natural separation of vinaigrette will occur over time. To return vinaigrette to its proper state, simply whisk it.
For Tristan’s Curry Powder:
Place all ingredients in a sauté pan over medium heat. Constantly move pan over heat, toasting spices until they begin to have an aroma. Remove from heat and cool. Pulverize in a spice grinder or clean coffee grinder. Store in airtight container in cool, dark place for up to one week or in refrigerator for up to two weeks.
Tip:
-Use a squeeze bottle for distributing the Toasted Curry Vinaigrette onto the soup for a more pleasing presentation.
Bay Scallop Minestrone
- 2 cups dry white lima beans
- 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
- 2 cups diced carrots
- 2 cups diced yellow onions
- 11/2 cups diced celery
- 5 garlic cloves, sliced
- 1/2 tsp. dried thyme
- 1 bay leaf
- 2 Tbs. tomato paste
- 2 cups gewürztraminer wine
- 2 qts. vegetable stock
- 1 lb. bay scallops
- 1 cup finely julienned collard greens
- 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
- 2 tsp. kosher salt
- 1/4 tsp. black pepper
- 1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, for garnish
- 1 Tbs. fresh thyme leaves, for garnish
- Olive Oil Crackers, for garnish
Cover lima beans with water and soak overnight. Drain.
Place heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Put two tablespoons olive oil, carrots, onions, and celery in pan. Sweat until onions are translucent, three to four minutes.
Add garlic, thyme, and bay leaf and cook for one minute. Add tomato paste, incorporating well. Deglaze pan with wine and add limas. Add stock and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer for 45 minutes to an hour, or until beans are tender.
Add scallops, collard greens, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Simmer broth another two minutes, or until scallops are cooked.
Divide soup among six warmed bowls. Sprinkle with cheese, thyme, and remaining olive oil. Serve hot with Olive Oil Crackers.
Duck & Lentil Soup
- 2 cups French green lentils
- 1 head garlic
- 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 cups diced yellow onion
- 2 cups diced celery
- 1 cup sherry, Dry Sack recommended
- 1 cup peeled red pearl onions
- 2 qts. chicken stock
- Kosher salt and black pepper, to taste
- 4 seven- to eight-oz. duck breasts, cooked
- 1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley, for garnish
Soak lentils in water overnight. Drain.
Preheat oven to 350°F. Cut top off of head of garlic. Rub olive oil on garlic until thoroughly covered. Wrap garlic in aluminum foil. Roast until slightly browned and tender to touch, approximately 45 minutes. Cool. Squeeze cloves out of exposed top into small mixing bowl and set aside. (Garlic is best roasted ahead of time and stored in refrigerator until needed.)
Puree onion, celery, and roasted garlic in food processor. Put puree in heavy-bottomed saucepan and sweat, covered, over medium-low heat until onion is translucent. Deglaze pan with sherry. Add lentils, pearl onions, and stock. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook on low heat for 25 minutes, or until lentils are tender. Season with salt and pepper.
Cut prepared breasts in half lengthwise. Slice halves into approximately 1/4-inch slices and set aside for plating.
Divide soup among six warmed bowls, making sure each gets a share of pearl onions. Top with slices of duck, sprinkle lightly with parsley, and serve immediately.
*Chef’s note: Soup can be cooled to room temperature, covered, and refrigerated for up to two days in advance.
Caramel Apple Soup
- 11/4 cups sugar
- 1/4 cup water 11/2 cups heavy cream
- 2 cups apple juice, Musselman’s recommended
- 1 lemon
- 1 Granny Smith apple
- Pecan Streusel
- French Vanilla Bean Ice Cream
Put sugar and water in medium heavy-bottomed saucepan that’s very clean and dry. Stir gently to combine, being careful not to get sugar on sides of saucepan.
Mixture will resemble wet sand. Place saucepan over medium-high heat. Do not stir sugar once it’s on stove. Let sugar come to a boil and cook until golden brown, about seven to eight minutes. Watch carefully, as it can burn quickly. Remove saucepan from heat and slowly whisk in heavy cream. Mixture will bubble up, but will settle down and become caramel. Allow to cool for 10 minutes. Add apple juice.
*Chef’s note: You may make soup up to two days in advance and keep it covered in refrigerator. If soup separates, stir to reblend.
To serve: Heat soup. Slice lemon in half. Cut apple into quarters and remove core from each wedge. Slice quarters into thin, half moon-shaped pieces and place in small mixing bowl. Squeeze lemon juice over slices and gently toss. (Acid will prevent fruit from browning.)
Place about two tablespoons of Pecan Streusel in each of six serving dishes. Place a scoop of French Vanilla Bean Ice Cream on top of streusel. Garnish with apple slices. Soup can be poured table-side or at the last minute before presenting.
