In Good Taste: Supper á Deux

Chill oysters, rock salt, and two plates.

Combine the Champagne, shallot, and tarragon stems in a small saucepan over medium-high heat and bring mixture to a brisk simmer for about five to six minutes, until the liquid is reduced to two tablespoons. Strain and discard shallots and tarragon stems. Cover and chill.

When ready to serve oysters, whisk the oil into the reduction. Reserve 12 tarragon leaves for garnish. Add remaining tarragon and chervil leaves to the dressing.

Place cold rock salt on chilled plates to a depth of 1/2 inch. Shuck oysters and arrange them in the salt. Peel and thinly slice a quarter of the avocado. Lay one slice over each oyster and drizzle dressing over the top. Lightly season with sea salt, garnish with one of the reserved tarragon leaves, and serve.

Bring crab stock to a simmer in a medium pot. Heat the olive oil in a wide shallow saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onion, fennel, and leek and cook until soft, but not browned, four to five minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about one minute. Stir in rice and cook, stirring frequently, until slightly toasted, two to three minutes. Add wine and stir frequently until fully absorbed, one to two minutes. Add the stock, half a cup at a time, stirring frequently and waiting until liquid is absorbed before adding more. Continue this process for approximately 15 minutes. When rice is al dente (firm, not hard), add two tablespoons of the cream and stir until almost completely absorbed, about two minutes. Fold in the cold butter and a fourth of the crab meat.

Put the remaining two tablespoons of cream and chile powder in a small pan over medium-high heat and stir until the chile powder is incorporated. Add the remaining crab meat, chervil leaves, and 10 tarragon leaves reserved from the crab stock. Spoon the finished risotto onto a serving plate and spoon the chile cream over it. Garnish with a few fresh tarragon leaves reserved from crab stock. Sprinkle with the petite croutons.

For Crab Stock:

Preheat oven to 400ºF.
Spread crab shells on baking sheet and roast for 20 minutes.
Heat the canola oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the onion, celery, carrot, leek, and garlic and cook, stirring often, until soft but not brown, approximately three to four minutes. Add roasted crab shells, bay leaf, thyme, tarragon stems, lemon, peppercorns, and water. Increase to high heat and bring to a boil. Immediately reduce heat to low and gently simmer for 1½ hours, skimming off any scum that may come to the top. Strain through a fine sieve, discard solids, and allow to cool.

For Petite Croutons:

Heat the olive oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the garlic, thyme, and rosemary. Add the bread and toast it, stirring frequently, until golden brown. It will continue to brown when removed from the oil, so be careful not to overcook. Drain on paper towels.

Preheat oven to 325ºF.

Put 1.5 ounces bittersweet chocolate in a small heat-proof bowl. Heat 1/3 cup of the heavy cream in a small saucepan over moderately low heat. Pour the warm cream over the chopped chocolate and let stand for five minutes. Stir until the ganache is smooth. Let stand at room temperature until set.

In a small saucepan, melt butter and toss with the diced challah in a large bowl. Spread bread on a baking sheet in an even layer and toast for about 15 minutes, or until golden brown. Wipe the bowl clean.

Combine the remaining heavy cream with the milk and three tablespoons of the sugar in a small saucepan and bring just to a boil. Remove from heat. Add remaining bittersweet chocolate and let stand for five minutes. Whisk until chocolate is melted.

In the bowl used for the bread, whisk remaining three tablespoons of sugar with egg yolks, cocoa, vanilla, and salt until a paste forms. Slowly whisk in the warm chocolate cream until smooth. Strain the custard into a clean bowl. Add toasted bread and toss to coat with warm chocolate custard. Let stand for 10 minutes, or until most of the chocolate custard is absorbed.

Pour bread mixture into prepared 6x6-inch baking dish. Using a large spoon, dollop the ganache on top. Bake the bread pudding for about 35 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the middle comes out clean.

Let the bread pudding stand for 15 minutes, then serve with the port caramel sauce on the side. This dessert can be made ahead and refrigerated over night. Rewarm before serving.

For the port caramel sauce:

Heat granulated sugar in a heavy medium saucepan over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until melted. Continue to cook, without stirring, until an amber caramel forms, about three minutes.

Remove from heat. Add light brown sugar and stir until smooth. Return caramel to the heat and carefully add the port. The caramel will harden slightly. Cook, stirring, until the sugar dissolves. Add cream and cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about six minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the vanilla. Transfer sauce to a pitcher and serve warm.  

This sauce can be made ahead and refrigerated for up to three weeks. Rewarm before serving.