In Good Taste: Little Italy
Chef Craig Deihl relives a trip overseas for perfect summer party menus
Little Italy
Chef Craig Deihl relives a trip overseas for perfect summer party menus
Craig Deihl, executive chef at Cypress, is known for his farm-to-table commitment, talents with charcuterie, and for founding the Artisan Meat Share. Last fall, he joined other Lowcountry Slow Food champions to represent Charleston at the organization’s Terra Madre conference in Italy. Afterward, Deihl explored the Piedmont and Emilia-Romagna regions to see if his stateside renditions of Northern Italian fare ran true to their roots. Besides affirming the dishes’ authenticity, he was taken with the region’s small-plate meals—just right, he says, for Spoleto parties or other summer get-togethers.
A Parade of Plates
Traveling through northern regions of Italy, Deihl was struck with how prevalent assaggini or “tastes” were. “We know them as small plates,” he says, “and gathered together they can become a light but satisfying meal, perfect for evening event fare.” Deihl devised this early summer menu to celebrate the season and honor classic Italy—fitting, considering the May to June Spoleto Festival’s Italian origin.
The lineup—prosciutto, mozzarella, and coppa; grilled plums and asparagus; arugula salad with roasted beets, watermelon, and feta; parmesan polenta; lamb meatballs; and pound cake with blueberries—is meant to be set out all at once. But Deihl suggests you start with a plate of cured meats and cheeses primo. “We had that every day we were in Italy,” he says.
As for pairings, “Pre-theater, accompany the assaggini with prosecco, an Italian red, and perhaps an expertly pulled espresso,” recommends Deihl. And after the show? “A 2005 Vittorio Graziano lambrusco would be excellent if the evening is warm,” he says, “as would a good grappa.”
Grilled Plums & Asparagus
If using a grill, preheat grill at least 30 minutes before beginning. If using a grill pan, warm it in a 350°F oven until ready to use.
5 ripe plums, halved and pitted
Olive oil
Kosher salt, to taste
1 lb. large asparagus
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 cloves garlic, peeled and very finely grated
Aged balsamic vinegar (15-year preferred), to taste
Maldon sea salt, to taste
Rub plum halves with olive oil until evenly coated. Sprinkle with kosher salt. Cut the ends off asparagus, then peel the bottom third of each. Rub with olive oil until evenly coated. Sprinkle with kosher salt, black pepper, and garlic.
Place plums flesh-side down on grill. Cook for three to four minutes or until flesh chars. Place on a plate, cover with foil, and set aside.
Place asparagus on grill. Cook for one to two minutes or until stems char. Roll asparagus over and repeat. Place on a plate, cover with foil, and set aside.
Assemble grilled plums and asparagus on a serving platter. Drizzle with aged balsamic vinegar and sprinkle lightly with Maldon sea salt.
Roasted Beets with Watermelon, Feta, Arugula, & Black Olive Oil
For the beets:
2 bunches red beets, washed and tops
removed
2 Tbs. olive oil
1/2 Tbs. kosher salt
1 tsp. ground fennel seed
1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
Peel of 1 lemon, in strips—not zest and
no white pith
2 sprigs rosemary
For the black olive oil:
1 cup cured black olives such as Kalamata), pits removed
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
For the watermelon, feta, & arugula:
1 small cannonball watermelon, seeds removed and cut into cubes
2-3 oz. feta cheese
6 oz. arugula, washed and spun
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
1 tsp. kosher salt
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
For the beets:
Preheat oven to 350°F.
Mix beets with olive oil, salt, fennel, and red pepper flakes. Place on a double layer of heavy-duty aluminum foil, top with lemon peel strips and rosemary sprigs, and tightly wrap. Place package on a baking sheet with sides.
Roast for two hours or until beets are tender. Cool beets to point you can handle them but peel while they are still hot. Cut beets into quarters.
For the black olive oil:
Place the olives and olive oil in a blender and purée until mixture reaches the consistency of a smooth oil, about five minutes.
For the watermelon, feta, & arugula:
Combine watermelon, feta, and arugula in a large mixing bowl. Toss with the lemon juice, olive oil, salt, and pepper.
Coat the bottom of a large platter with black olive oil. Layer with the roasted beets. Top with the arugula mixture.
Parmesan Polenta
1 1/2 cups Anson Mills Artisan
Fine Polenta
5 cups water
1 1/2 Tbs. kosher salt
3 Tbs. unsalted butter
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano
Reggiano or Grana Padano, plus 2
Tbs. extra to finish
1 tsp. Maldon sea salt
1/4 tsp. cracked black pepper
2 tsp. freshly chopped thyme
Place polenta and water in a crock pot, cover, and set heat on high. Stir every 15 minutes. (Alternately, cook polenta overnight—six to eight hours—in crock pot on low heat.)
After 1 1/2 hours, or when the polenta has fully absorbed the water and is no longer al dente, reduce the temperature to low and stir in the kosher salt, butter, and 1/4 cup cheese. Keep warm until ready to serve.
Five minutes before serving, stir vigorously, pour onto a cutting board, and sprinkle with the remaining two tablespoons of cheese, plus sea salt, pepper, and thyme. Cover lightly with a clean kitchen towel and allow polenta to set up, about five minutes. (Note: Polenta should be firm but not hard.) Cut into squares and serve.
Lemon-Thyme Pound Cake with Blueberries & Bay Laurel Syrup
For the pound cake:
1 cup Anson Mills Artisan Fine
Polenta, divided
4 cups all-purpose flour
4 1/2 tsp. baking powder
1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
2 1/4 cups sugar
1/2 cup unsalted butter
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 eggs
3 Tbs. lemon zest, divided
2 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme, divided
1 Tbs. turbinado sugar
For the blueberries & bay laurel syrup:
2-3 Tbs. turbinado sugar
1 -2 Tbs. water
1 tsp. kosher salt
4 fresh bay leaves
10 juniper berries, optional
2 pints blueberries, washed
Peel of 1 lemon—not zest and
no white pith
Extra-virgin olive oil
For the pound cake:
Preheat oven to 350°F. Spray two 10 x 5 x 3-inch loaf pans with nonstick baking spray. Sprinkle 1/4 cup polenta in each pan and shake pans to coat. Pour out excess polenta.
In a separate bowl, mix flour, remaining 1/2 cup polenta, baking powder, and salt. Set aside.
Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment, cream the sugar and butter until light and fluffy. Add olive oil and cream again. Add eggs one at a time, beating until evenly incorporated. Add half the dry mixture and incorporate. Add the other half and incorporate. Add two tablespoons lemon zest and one tablespoon thyme and incorporate. Do not over-mix.
Pour batter into prepared loaf pans. Sprinkle tops with remaining lemon zest, thyme, and turbinado sugar. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until crusts are golden and cake tester (or wooden skewer) is clean when removed from cakes. Remove cakes from pans and cool on a cake rack.
For the blueberries & bay laurel syrup:
Put sugar, water, salt, bay leaves, and juniper berries in small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Remove from heat, stir until sugar is dissolved, and allow syrup mixture to completely cool. Remove juniper berries if used. Place blueberries in bowl and pour syrup over them.
When ready to serve, slice pound cake and spoon blueberries with syrup over it. Lightly sprinkle with lemon peel and extra-virgin olive oil.
Sweet and Sour Lamb Meatballs
For the tomato-orange marmalade sauce:
1/4 cup olive oil
1/2 cup diced yellow onion
1/2 cup diced fennel bulb
1 Tbs. thinly sliced garlic
1/2 Tbs. crushed red pepper flakes
2 Tbs. kosher salt, divided
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1 (1 lb. 12 oz.) can San Marzano whole peeled tomatoes, spilt in half and seeds removed
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
8 oz. orange marmalade, preferably MacKays Orange Marmalade with Champagne
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
For the meatballs:
1 egg, lightly beaten
1/4 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup red wine
1/2 cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs)
2 Tbs. freshly grated parmesan cheese
2 Tbs. kosher salt
2 tsp. fennel seed, ground
2 tsp. cumin seed, ground
1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
2 tsp. smoked paprika
1 tsp. oregano
1 lb. ground lamb shoulder
1/2 lb. ground lamb bacon or smoked slab bacon
To assemble:
2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat leaf parsley
2 Tbs. chopped fresh chervil
2 Tbs. unsalted butter
For the tomato-orange marmalade sauce:
Place the olive oil, onion, fennel, garlic, red pepper flakes, and two tablespoons salt in a heavy saucepan over medium-high heat and cook, stirring occasionally, for seven to 10 minutes, or until the vegetables are golden in color and very soft.
Add the red wine vinegar and cook for two minutes. Add the tomatoes and pepper. Reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the volume is reduced by a third. Add the orange marmalade and continue to cook for another two to three minutes.
Remove from the heat, adjust the salt and pepper to taste, and let cool. Set aside for two to three days if possible.
For the meatballs:
Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.
Combine the egg, cream, wine, panko, parmesan, salt, fennel, cumin, red pepper flakes, paprika, and oregano in a mixing bowl. Allow the panko to absorb the liquid. Add the ground lamb and lamb bacon. Mix evenly until just incorporated.
Divide the mixture into about 30 meatballs the size of a ping-pong ball. Place them on a baking sheet with sides and bake for seven to eight minutes. They should only be cooked half way.
To assemble:
Heat the tomato-orange marmalade and stir in the herbs and butter. Stir in the meatballs and cook over low heat for about five minutes, or until just cooked. Remove meatballs with a slotted spoon to serving dish, leaving whatever marmalade coats them, but not adding marmalade to the dish. Place picks in the meatballs and serve warm.
Charcuterie Platter
1/4 lb. prosciutto
1/4 lb. coppa
1/2 lb. fresh mozzarella
Extra-virgin olive oil
Maldon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 Tbs. finely snipped chives
Ask your butcher to slice the meats very thin and place them individually on deli paper. This will allow you to pick up the slices and arrange them on your own platter.
Arrange the platter as desired with the meats and slices of mozzarella. Lightly drizzle the mozzarella with olive oil and lightly sprinkle it with the salt, black pepper, and chives.
