Eat + Drink: Home for the Holidays
Five local chefs share recipes and tips for some of their favorite holiday dishes. Choose one, a few, or the whole menu for your celebration
Brussels Sprouts with Caramelized Onions & Bacon
John Ondo, Lana Restaurant & Bar
’’Brussels sprouts are at their best in November and December, when the cold weather concentrates their sugars and brings out their nutty flavor,” says John Ondo, executive chef/owner of Lana restaurant. “They are little cousins to cabbage, but with a lot less pungent nature, and, like cabbage, a natural match for bacon and onions.” The dish of crunchy Brussels sprouts, crispy bacon, and silky sweet onions, all kissed with piquant sherry vinegar, will complement any meat in the holiday entertaining arsenal, from Mike Lata’s lamb to the traditional turkey and ham and Lowcountry favorites of venison and game birds.
(See below for recipe.)
Roasted Pumpkin Soup with Cardamom Crème Fraîche & Prosciutto Cracklings
Kevin Mitchell, Culinary Institute of Charleston
“The aroma from this soup brings back memories of being in the kitchen with my grandmother and the many, dishes that she would prepare in December,” says Culinary Institute of Charleston chef instructor Kevin Mitchell, who credits these experiences with influencing his career choice. “I particularly wanted to make a savory soup because of the many sweet dishes on holiday menus. This one has only the lightest whisper of honey from the shallots and apples.” Bright with color and flavor, this low-fat soup can be dressed up even more with a soupçon of cardamom crème fraîche and sprinkle of prosciutto cracklings.
(See below for recipe.)
Oyster Cornbread Dressing
Michelle Weaver, Charleston Grill
Inspired by her love for both cornbread dressing and oysters Rockefeller, Charleston Grill executive chef Michelle Weaver delivers a side dish that’s sure to steal the spotlight. “I saved a step by combining the two, adding lemon to bring out the briny quality of the oysters and spinach to give it the Rockefeller play,” she says. “And I’m careful not to overseason, as most people will serve it with gravy.” The result is a perfectly tuned carol of contrasts: the celery still has crunch, the bacon is chewy, the eggs and cream form a custardy binding, and the cornbread is crispy on top.
(See below for recipe.)
Roasted Leg of Lamb Persillade
Mike Lata, FIG
With whole leg of lamb as his choice entrée, Mike Lata—executive chef and co-owner of FIG and The Ordinary (opening mid-December)—isn’t trying to get you to forgo your traditional turkey or ham, just to look at other options for capturing the holiday spirit. “We’ve become a little more French over here,” he says, speaking of FIG. “Lamb is my favorite meat, perfect for dining at home. Maybe we’ll crust it with a little persillade.” (Persil being the French word for parsley, a persillade is a combination of the more flavorful flat-leaf parsley and garlic, with crumbs when a crust is desired.) Mike recommends buying New Zealand’s lamb over Colorado’s. But if you can use the cuts from half a lamb, you can buy from Virginia’s Border Spring Farm, which Mike says is his favorite and the lamb he uses at FIG.
(See below for recipe.)
Eggnog Cheesecake with Candied Pecans & Cranberry Compote
Lauren Mitterer, WildFlour Pastry
Making eggnog the highlight of the dessert instead of the aperitif, WildFlour Pastry owner Lauren Mitterer dishes up the quintessential Southern holiday drink with its nutmeg nuance as a rich confection. For those who would prefer their ’nog sans brandy, or that their children not imbibe, she offers a colorful cranberry compote to substitute for the mascarpone cream but leaves the option to layer it with both. Candied pecans are so delicious you’ll be making extra batches to munch on once the cheesecake is gone.
(See below for recipe.)
Brussels Sprouts with Caramelized Onions & Bacon
John Ondo, Lana Restaurant & Bar
10 oz. slab bacon, cut into matchstick-size pieces
2 Tbs. unsalted butter, divided
3 medium yellow onions, sliced thin
2 lbs. Brussels sprouts, bottoms trimmed, outer leaves removed, and larger sprouts cut in half
3 Tbs. good quality sherry vinegar
Kosher salt, to taste
Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
Put a large pot of salted water on to boil over medium-high heat.
Cook bacon in a large cast-iron skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the fat has been rendered and bacon is crisp, about 25 minutes. Remove bacon to paper towels. Reserve two tablespoons of fat and discard the rest. Return the two tablespoons of fat back to the skillet. Add one tablespoon butter and stir over medium heat until melted and the combined fats are hot. Add onions and cook, stirring occasionally, about 25 minutes, or until tender and golden brown. Set aside.
Add Brussels sprouts to the pot of boiling water and cook for five minutes, or until they are tender when pierced with a knife. While the Brussels sprouts are cooking, make an ice bath by putting equal parts ice and water in a large bowl. When the sprouts are done, use a spider skimmer or slotted spoon to remove them from the pot and put them immediately into the ice bath to stop further cooking and retain the green color. Once chilled, remove them to paper towels to drain.
When ready to serve the dish, place skillet over medium-high heat and add bacon and onion mixture. Add vinegar, using it to loosen any bits on the bottom of the skillet. Cook, stirring, for a couple of minutes, until vinegar evaporates.
Stir in Brussels sprouts and heat. Add remaining tablespoon of butter and stir to incorporate. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve.
Roasted Pumpkin Soup with Cardamom Crème Fraîche & Prosciutto Cracklings
Kevin Mitchell, Culinary Institute of Charleston
9 lb. Fairytale or other cooking pumpkin, yielding approximately
9 cups of roasted flesh
3½ Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
3 Fuji apples (about 22 oz.), cored and chopped into 1/2-inch cubes
7 shallots (about 6 oz.), peeled and cut in half
4 sprigs thyme
1½ qts. low-sodium chicken broth, divided
Pinch nutmeg
Pinch allspice
1 Tbs. kosher salt, or to taste
Cardamom Crème Fraîche (recipe follows)
Prosciutto Cracklings (recipe follows)
Preheat oven to 400°F.
Wash pumpkin. Cut off the top, scoop out seeds, and remove strings. Cut into wedges and pierce flesh with a fork multiple times. Rub the wedges with 1½ tablespoons of olive oil. Place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet and roast them in the oven about one hour to one hour and 20 minutes, or until tender.
Place apples and shallots on a separate parchment-lined baking sheet and toss them with one tablespoon of olive oil. Lay thyme sprigs on top and roast in the oven about 30 minutes, or until tender.
Remove pumpkin and apples from the oven and allow to cool to room temperature. Once pumpkin has cooled, scoop the flesh from the skin.
Heat the final tablespoon of olive oil in a heavy-bottomed soup pot. Add roasted pumpkin, apples, and shallots. Cook over medium heat for one minute. Add one quart of chicken broth. Bring to a simmer, reduce heat to low, and cook for 10 minutes.
Working in batches, put the mixture in a blender and blend until smooth. Strain it through a fine mesh sieve back into the soup pot. Add remaining 1/2-quart chicken broth. Warm on medium heat for five minutes. Stir in nutmeg, allspice, and salt. Divide soup between pre-warmed bowls. Finish with a spoon of crème fraîche and a sprinkling of prosciutto cracklings.
For the Prosciutto Cracklings:
3 oz. thinly sliced prosciutto
Preheat oven to 350°F. Place prosciutto on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake for 15 minutes or until crisp. Cool. Crumble and reserve for garnish.
For the Cardamom Crème Fraîche:
1/2 cup crème fraîche
1/2 tsp. ground cardamom
Combine crème fraîche and cardamom. Stir until blended and smooth. Refrigerate.
Oyster Cornbread Dressing
Michelle Weaver, Charleston Grill
5 cups cornbread (recipe follows)
2 Tbs. unsalted butter
1 cup finely chopped yellow onion
1/2 cup finely chopped celery
1/2 cup small dice of bacon
Juice and zest of 2 lemons
1 Tbs. fresh thyme leaves
2 Tbs. Italian parsley leaves
2 Tbs. roughly chopped fresh sage
1 cup roughly chopped fresh baby spinach
1 cup freshly shredded parmesan
3 eggs, lightly beaten
2 cups half-and-half
3 dozen oysters, shucked and liquor reserved
Make the cornbread, roughly crumble it, and leave it out overnight to dry. You will need five cups.
When you’re ready to make the dressing, preheat oven to 400°F. Melt butter in a medium sauté pan. Add onions, celery, and bacon. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are translucent and fat has rendered from the bacon. Remove the pan from heat and add lemon juice and zest and herbs. Allow mixture to cool slightly.
Put crumbled cornbread in a large bowl. Pour the onion mixture over the cornbread and gently toss together. Add spinach and toss again. Add parmesan cheese. In a separate bowl, mix eggs and half-and-half and pour over the cornbread mixture. Add oysters and their liquor and carefully stir together.
Place mixture into a buttered 8 x 12 x 2-inch baking dish. Cover and bake for 25 minutes. Uncover and bake for 15 more minutes, or until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Remove dressing from the oven and allow it to rest for 15 to 20 minutes before serving.
For the Cornbread:
1 cup all-purpose flour
3/4 cup stone-ground white cornmeal
1 Tbs. baking powder
1 tsp. kosher salt
3 eggs
1/2 cup sour cream
2/3 cup whole buttermilk
1/4 cup vegetable oil
Preheat oven to 400°F and place a 10-inch cast-iron skillet inside to heat.
Sift flour, cornmeal, baking powder, and salt together. In a separate bowl, whisk eggs just enough to break them up. Stir in sour cream, buttermilk, and oil.
Pour liquid ingredients into dry ingredients and stir until just combined. Do not overmix. Pour mixture into hot skillet. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the middle comes out clean. Cool on a wire rack.
Roasted Leg of Lamb Persillade
Mike Lata, FIG
6 lb. bone-in leg of lamb
1 French bâtard
1 to 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
1 bulb fennel, fronds removed and coarsely chopped
1 yellow onion, coarsely chopped
1 carrot, coarsely chopped
1 rib celery, coarsely chopped
Kosher salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 bunches Italian parsley, leaves only
1/2 lb. unsalted butter, melted
2 oil-packed anchovies
2 cloves garlic, or to taste
Ask your butcher to “French” the leg of lamb, removing the shank to expose the bone, and remove excessive surface fat. Remember, however, that lamb needs a coating of fat to keep it moist.
Let the meat come to room temperature, about two hours, before roasting it. Meanwhile, remove the crust from the bread. Process pieces in a food processor until you have one cup of crumbs. Heat olive oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add crumbs and cook, stirring frequently, until they are golden brown. You may add a little more olive oil if the skillet seems dry. Transfer crumbs to a paper towel. Wipe out the skillet.
Preheat oven to 400°F. Place fennel, onion, carrot, and celery in a roasting pan and mix them to combine.
Season lamb with salt and pepper. Reheat the large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, sear the lamb on all sides, just to start the cooking process. Remove lamb and set on the bed of vegetables in the roasting pan. Place it in the oven.
While the lamb is roasting, make a persillade to coat it. Place parsley in a blender. With the blender on, stream in melted butter, scraping down the sides as necessary. Add anchovies and blend. Transfer mixture to a bowl. Grate in garlic, preferably using a microplane. Fold in 1/2 cup of bread crumbs.
When the temperature of the lamb measures 100°F closest to the bone (after approximately 40 to 45 minutes), remove roasting pan from the oven. Quickly press the persillade onto all exposed surfaces of the lamb and return it to the oven. Roast it for an additional 20 to 30 minutes for medium-rare (130°F) and about 10 minutes more for medium (140°F).
Remove lamb from the oven and place it on a platter or carving board. Cover lightly by making a tent over it with aluminum foil and let rest for 20 minutes before carving. Scatter remaining 1/2-cup bread crumbs over the carved slices of lamb.
Eggnog Cheesecake with Candied Pecans & Cranberry Compote
Lauren Mitterer, WildFlour Bakery
For the Graham Cracker Crust:
1¼ cups graham cracker crumbs
3 Tbs. sugar
1/2 tsp. ground nutmeg
3 oz. unsalted butter, melted
For the Cheesecake:
3 lbs. cream cheese, room temperature
1½ cups sugar
1½ tsp. ground nutmeg
6 eggs, room temperature
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
For the Mascarpone:
1 lb. mascarpone
2 oz. brandy, or to taste
3 oz. pure grade B maple syrup
Preheat oven to 350°F and grease a nine-inch springform pan.
Mix graham cracker crumbs, sugar, nutmeg, and melted butter in a bowl. Press mixture onto bottom of the pan and bake it for five to seven minutes, or until slightly golden. Allow crust to cool before adding cheesecake mixture.
Reduce oven temperature to 300°F.
Place cream cheese, sugar, and nutmeg in the bowl of a stand mixer with a paddle attachment and mix on a low speed until smooth. Add eggs one at a time, mixing just enough to incorporate. After the addition of each egg, scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula. Add vanilla last, stirring to make sure that all ingredients are incorporated. Pour filling into the prepared crust.
Tear three large squares (12 to 14 inches) of aluminum foil. Stack the foil squares flat on the counter and place the springform pan in the middle of the stack. Starting at the corners, being careful not to tear the foil, bring the foil up the sides of the pan. This will prevent any water from leaking into the crust. Once the pan is watertight, place it in a roasting pan or larger cake pan. Place this in the oven with the rack slightly pulled out to give you easy access for adding the water. Carefully pour hot water into the larger pan until the water reaches halfway up the side of the springform pan. It is very important not to get water in or on the cheesecake, so pour very gently.
Bake cheesecake for about one hour, or until it is set in the middle. Carefully remove the pan from the oven, remove cheesecake from the water bath, and set it aside to cool. Once cool, place it in the refrigerator to finish setting, at least four hours.
While the cheesecake sets, prepare the mascarpone topping. Place the mascarpone, brandy, and maple syrup in the bowl of a stand mixer with a paddle attachment and mix to combine. Once combined, turn the speed to high to whip the mascarpone into a stiff consistency, being careful not to overwhip it. Refrigerate until ready to use.
After the cheesecake is set, unmold the sides of the pan and, using an offset spatula, gently remove the bottom. Spread or pipe mascarpone mixture over the top of the cooled cheesecake or serve as a garnish on the side. Garnish with the candied pecans and add the cranberry compote, if desired.
