September 2011

Quick Bite: Game On!

Written By
Kinsey Gidick
Photographs by
Christopher Nelson

Oak chef de cuisine Joseph Jacobson shares a portion-perfect alternative to the typical grill fare

Don’t let Oak chef de cuisine Joseph Jacobson fool you, he’s more than a grill master. Beyond his years working at the tony steak house—from server assistant to expediter, pantry cook to chef de cuisine—the West Ashley native counts his grandmother’s homemade gefilte fish and tales from life on his family’s 200-year-old Pamplico farm as culinary influences. And come fall, it’s not the idea of grilling prime cuts of beef that gets him excited, rather it’s the scent of game hens cooking in the backyard—proof that this grillardin has a soft spot for poultry.

“When I was growing up, my mom made Cornish game hens,” says Jacobson, who notes that this recipe is perfect for a dinner party because each person gets their own bird. To add flavor to your own feast, first prep the hen in a brining solution. “The salt opens the pores, maintains moisture, and pulls out impurities,” he explains. For an herbal aroma, Jacobson suggests filling the bird’s cavity with garlic, sage, rosemary, and thyme. Then truss the legs and wings using butcher’s twine (find photo instructions at charlestonmag.com). “This gives a nice aesthetic and allows for even cooking,” he says. Turn on the outside burners of the gas grill and for charcoal, push the coals away from the center. “Put the game hen in the middle of the grill to cook it like you would in a convection oven,” he adds. For an extra-tasty crust, baste two or three times with Jacobson’s herb butter, then serve with veggies and his balsamic gastrique. Ta da—game hen alfresco.

Cornish Game Hen

Ingredients 

Cornish Game Hen
1 1/4 lb. Cornish game hen
4 cups brine (recipe follows)
1/2 bunch sage
1/2 bunch thyme
1/2 bunch rosemary
1 unpeeled garlic, cut in half

Herb butter (find recipe at charlestonmag.com)
Balsamic gastrique(find recipe at charlestonmag.com)

For the brine:
2/3 cup salt
1/3 cup sugar
4 cups water

Directions 

Cornish Game Hen
Submerge hen in brine and cover. Place in refrigerator for 24 hours.
Remove bird from brine and pat dry. Preheat grill to 425°F, turning on only the outside burners of a gas grill or pushing coals of a charcoal grill away from the center. Fill cavity with herbs and garlic. Truss bird by pinching wings and legs up and out and tie with butcher’s twine. Place on center of grill. Baste with herb butter every 15 minutes. Cook for 35 to 45 minutes.
Remove from grill and let rest for 10 minutes. Pour gastrique over bird and serve.

For the brine:
Add salt and sugar to water in a pot. Bring to a boil, then remove from heat. Allow to cool.

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